SOUTH KOREA

Seoul moves fast and its art scene faster. Leeum holds Korean celadon and contemporary work under one roof, Bukchon’s hanok are for the quiet, and each September Frieze Seoul and Kiaf bring the whole art world to town. Tadao Ando’s Museum SAN sits in the mountains at Wonju, with a James Turrell space hidden inside. Gyeongju, the old Silla capital, is a city of royal tombs and temples. On Jeju, Itami Jun’s Water, Wind and Stone museums and Ando’s Bonte Museum sit along a very good coast.